GREAT TIME – BREATHTAKING SCENERY

Departing from Agrigento

A WEEK LONG OF FUN RIDING ON THE ISLAND OF SUN

Two bikes, a Ducati and a BMW, 700 miles, 7 days, made for an unforgettable tour of Sicily on motorcycle with my son David, from September 23-30/2011. This tour had been on my “bucket list” since David was in high school, but for one reason or another, we were never able to realize the project.

Last spring David urged me to get going, “Dad stop talking, let’s do it NOW or otherwise we’ll never do it, just find a couple of motorcycles, book them and let’s go.” That’s exactly what we did. I called a company in Palermo, negotiated the price and set the dates.

It was a one-of-a-kind adventure; we had a mix of wet days and gorgeous sunny days – Sicily proved to be one of the best destinations for this kind of adventure. Sicily’s country roads were perfect for a motorcycle rider, a bit bumpy, but with an ideal mix of turns, ups and downs and not enough traffic to worry about. It was the right combination to allow you to relax and enjoy both the ride and the panorama of breathtaking sea and mountain views.

The route planning, as David would say, “was perfect,” just the right number of miles to keep us fresh for the next day. We covered all the major highlights that this beautiful island has to offer and took in many small villages that rarely see tourists.

We started from Palermo, riding clockwise, we visited Catania, Siracusa, Noto, Modica, Agrigento, Enna, and Pietraperzia. Back in Palermo we had a full-day to visit the major historical and artistic points the city has to offer, including the Norman Palace with its Palatine Chapel covered wall-to-wall with precious mosaics. The Cathedral is an impressive architectural mix of styles, early Byzantine, then Arab in the 9th century and several signs of multiple additions between the 14-16th centuries.

We viewed the “4 Canti, ” the famed intersection dividing the city during Roman times, the Opera House, and the Capo outdoor market. These are the highlights that every tourist must see when visiting Palermo.

We stopped in Piazza Armerina to visit the famous “Villa Romana del Casale,” the Roman Patrician country villa whose many rooms are covered with spectacular mosaics that are in remarkably good condition.

We had good meals everywhere we went and drank some exceptional wines.

I’m happy to offer assistance to motorcycle riders who would like to duplicate this tour. Our experience was priceless.

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION PLEASE CALL: 1-507/287-8733
or email: info@travelingtoitaly.com


No Comments » |

Unknown Italy – Lomellina Land of Rice

View of the Cascina Bovile

LOMELLINA

Typical Itinerary

WERE THE RISOTTO WAS BORN

LOMELLINA (Pavia)
If you are interested in undiscovered places, this area will appeal to you!!!

Lomellina is a small area southwest of Milan, bordered by three rivers: the Po, the Sesia, and the Ticino. Italians refer to the area as “Oltrepo Pavese” meaning on the other side of the Po River in the area of Pavia! The area is full of small villages, comprising more than 60 communes. Three of the most well known of these are: Vigevano, famous for its beautiful shoe manufacturing, along with Mortara, Pavia and Vercelli.

The name “Lomellina” comes from “Lomello (Laumellum), one of the largest and most famous areas during Roman times. Remains of its city center or “Castrum” are still evident today. You can also appreciate an excellent example of Romanico-Longobardo architecture in its Santa Maria Maggiore church. Next to the church, that has undergone various modifications over the centuries, is the baptistery of San Giovanni built in the 7th Century. Its baptismal font alone, created between the 7th and 8th centuries, is worth the visit.

Those of you who like to deepen your knowledge of Italy and want to see places where Italians go in their free time, this area is the perfect place to spend a few days. Not only is it full of history and charm, it also provides wonderful value, great food and a good selection of quality accommodations.
The land of Lomellina is famous for its rice production, a tradition that began there in the 1500s. Take a look at this Dino De Laurentiis 1949 film with Vittorio Gassmann and Silvana Mangano, available in its entirety on YouTube to get a vision of rural life here.

The economy of the entire area is still dependent upon rice production. Historically, the cultivation of rice took place in water, but it is now rapidly changing into a “dry” cultivation, which the experts claim reduces costs while still creating a product that is comparable in both quality and taste.

To learn the secrets of risotto and other rice dishes, cooking classes can be arranged in this area taught by both home cooks and professionals. The gastronomy of the Lomellina is also famous for its goose breeding and various goose preparations. It’s here that you can taste fresh goose and naturally cured goose meat prepared with local spices and herbs. The most sought-after product is its NATURAL foie-gras – which exceeds expectations in every possible way.

I would encourage you to visit the “Cascine” that once housed the agricultural workers who worked in the rice fields. These “Cascine” or farms were like miniature villages complete with a school, a church, a cemetery, a few small stores, and the small apartments and rooms where the workers lived alone or with their families. Many of the largest “cascine”, where 300-500 people once lived, are still visible as villages on current maps. These “cascine” were abandoned during Italy’s boom years of the 1960s and were later rediscovered and restored as restaurants and rural lodging facilities known as “Agriturismi”. In addition to having all of amenities of larger facilities such as air conditioning, TV, WI-FI, they often make wonderful use of products that come directly from their property and frequently offer these products for sale. It cannot get more local than that! The appealing link between the history and tradition of the past with the needs of the present is a strong attraction to selecting this type of accommodation.

Two nights are ideal to get an idea of what the area has to offer. The area is rich with history due to its location situated between Milan and Pavia and close to Piedmont where the French, under the House of Savoy, reigned. It is only 90 minutes from Milan’s Malpensa airport. It would be a good place to unwind after an international flight for a couple of days or a destination to consider before coming back to the US. It’s an easy area to navigate with excellent roads and signage

Cilavegna
Here we recommend that you focus on food rather than art – we suggest an excellent restaurant called Tenuta Molino Taverna. The Banfi family that owns it treated us with professionalism and warmth. The mother “Mamma Margherita”, after raising her own family, is now enjoying a new career cooking for guests at their restaurant. With passion and skill, her children Pietro, Costanza and Giuditta an accomplished baker, take care of the dining room. If you would like to know how to duplicate some of her risotto recipes, Mamma Margherita is the perfect teacher. With ample notice, she offers cooking instruction. I recommend Risotto con le Creste di Gallina – or Cock’s Comb Risotto. Don’t forget this tip.

Olevano Lomellina
The Cascina Tenuta San Giovanni has been in business since the 1500s and, for the most part, is in excellent condition. It is currently undergoing additional restoration. It was one of the largest of the “cascine” in the area of rice production. Today, Cristiana Sartori, the great granddaughter of the founder is taking the business to another level. In fact, as mentioned above, Cristiana is tastefully restoring the structure transforming it into a kind of University highlighting the cuisine of Lombardy. What impressed me was the size and quality of the professional kitchen she has installed to accommodate weddings and other large events large events. The Cascina’s dining room can seat more than 250 guests and there are additional rooms for smaller gatherings.

Sant’Angelo Lomelliana
There is an ancient church in Lomellina that houses important frescoes from the 15th-16th C. The church itself was built on Roman remains, which are visible along the walls of the church.

Rosasco
Due to the production of rice, this was a flourishing commercial center prior to Italy’s economic boom in the 1960s. The remains of its castle built around the year 1000 are still visible. For art lovers, there is a painting of the crucifixion attributed to the school of Tomassino da Mortara in the sacristy of the church of San Valentino.

Ceretto Lomellina
A must stop is at the Cascina Bovile where Chef Pierluigi and his wife, Roberta offer exquisite traditional dishes all prepared with ingredients from their land. Their specialty is goose prepared in many different ways including cured goose and their NATURAL Foie Gras…our lunch there was an unforgettable taste experience.

Valle Lomellina
Several recently restored frescoes from the 9th-10th C. are worth seeing in the museum of Santa Maria di Castello.

Sartirana Lomellina
Here the remains of its tower and castle can be seen. Stop at the Cascina Corte Grande where Silvia e Marco offer genuine and personal hospitality in their large Cascina that is equipped for medium meetings and congresses. The cuisine at Corte Grande is delicious prepared with all local products including the wines.

WHERE TO SLEEP

• Cascina Corte Grande – Via Roma, 25 Semiana (PV) TEL. +39 0384 82 02 72 e:info@cascinacortegrande.it

WHERE TO EAT

• Cascina Bovile – Ceretto Lomellina. Tel. +39 033456123
• Molino Taverna – Strada Vicinale della Gallina. Cilavegna (PV) Tel. 0381 969 155 e:info@molinotaverna.it - www.molinotaverna.ir

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION PLEASE CALL: 1-507/287-8733
or email: info@travelingtoitaly.com


No Comments » |

A Message from “Down-Under”

Summer Concert in Piazza di Spagna

Very Gratifying Message

This’s what makes me proud

Dear Gabriele,

We arrived back in Australia on Friday after 5 wonderful weeks in Europe. I have not been near a computer (I wanted to have a real holiday!) to let you know how things went until now.

So…it all worked out perfectly!!

We arrived in Rome and as you suggested caught the train to Fiumicino and then straight to Orvieto. The Hotel Aquila Bianca was just lovely and the staff very accommodating. We loved Orvieto – beautiful duomo – and really had wished that we could stay another day but as planned we collected the car next morning and drove to Malvarina, stopping as you suggested at Todi on the way where we had lunch.

We were pleased that we had a GPS with the car as Malvarina was quite difficult to find. However, we arrived safely and met the crew there. Claudio told us that sadly Maria was in hospital but Patrizia his wife would do our cooking lesson. We enjoyed Malvarina very much. We had a lovely cottage there. The food was wonderful – so much too!! We enjoyed the cooking class – lots of fun. We were lucky to watch Georgio make pecorino and ricotta, especially interesting for us as we had fairly recently done a cheese making course here in Orange.

We visited Spello, Bevagna and Montefalco where we indulged in the sagrantino wine. We went to Assisi but we were somewhat disappointed with so many rather tacky souvenir shops. Also the square had seating scaffolding erected, maybe for Easter or the beatification – not sure – but it obscured a lot of the beautiful buildings. We went to Gubbio which we loved – the trip there very scenic and the city wonderful – also the rabbit and white truffle pasta we had for lunch!!! Sadly we did not have time to see Perugia – we shall have to go again. On reflection it would have been better to spend time in Perugia rather than Asissi.

We took the car back to Orvieto and caught the train to Rome again. Goodness, how we loved Rome!!! What an amazing city. Neither of us had been there before and we were flabbergasted!! Our unit in the centro storico was wonderful as was the one in Venice – we had chosen them on the internet from Sleep in Italy – so pleased they worked out so well. We shall definitely go back one day – and to Umbria again and then further south.

Our night at the ballet was beautiful – thank you for organising such good seats for us!

Our cooking class with Fabio was very special. Peter and I were joined by a very nice New Zealand girl – so there was just the three of us. We were very lucky to be just three. Fabio taught us some really nice dishes and his house in Calcata, Mazzano is a real eye-opener!! Just beautiful. So that day worked out really well too.

So after our 7 days in Rome caught the train to Venice – just as beautiful as I remember but very crowded – much more than in 1965!!! After that we went to Vienna to our friend’s 70th birthday, to amazingly beautiful Prague for 2 days then to Switzerland to Peter’s sisters for a week. A wonderful holiday!!!

So thank you so much Gabriele for organising the Rome and Umbria part of our holiday – it was all wonderful and worked out so well. I must admit I was a little concerned at organising everything over the internet but luckily, things could not have been better. I shall definitely mention you to anyone I know who may be wanting to visit Italy.

Best regards and thank you from Peter and me
Susan

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION PLEASE CALL: 1-507/287-8733
or email: info@travelingtoitaly.com


No Comments » |

Beautiful Masterpiece Comes Home

Morgantina Venus (Aphrodite)

welcome home Venus

Looted artwork find home

For those of you who are not intimately familiar with Sicily – the Morgantina – Aidone area is known as the Pompeii of Sicily – the excavation site of a Greek settlement in Sicily that is more than 2000 years old. The famous statue that was found in this site, known as the Morgantina “Venus,” had been at the Getty Museum in Malibu since the 1980s after it was purchased for $18 million from a London auction house. Italians recently won a long-fought court battle for its return claiming that it was looted and then sold illegally to the Getty. As part of the agreement in 2007, more than 40 other items will also be returned to Italy. To add to the celebration, the timing of the return of the “Venus” corresponds to Italy’s 150th anniversary of its unification.

The Morgantina “Venus” (5th century BC) marble statue is not really a Venus, but the statue of a Greek Goddess; experts think it could be Persephone or her mother, Demetre. Morgantina is small village and an archeological site in the heart of Sicily, near Enna. This site has risen to fame in the world of archeology since 1988 when the Getty Museum incautiously purchased the rare piece from a British antique dealer.

I’m a strong supporter of returning artwork, particularly rare pieces like the Goddess of Morgantina, to their original place of discovery, even if this thinking would mean that the Mona Lisa should be returned to Florence. Fortunately, the history of the Morgantina statue is much simpler, though full of legal intrigue on both sides of the Atlantic.

The two-meter tall statue is finally back in its native land Sicily, near the other fabulous archeological site of Villa Romana del Casale. For her, the local government has prepared a special place, a small unused church that has became a museum. The small city of Aidone is struggling to create a place that will match the beauty of the statue, but the limited resources of the small city cannot afford a grandiose building made of glass and steel. The city is working feverishly to ready a place for the grand opening scheduled for June 17, 2011. Road connections to the village are very poor, but the beauty of this unique archeological piece will repay tourists, and art lovers who have endured the road to reach Aidone.

The good news is that the statue will be exposed there for long time to come. In Italy almost everyone agrees to keep archeological findings, or any antique pieces of art of value in the places where they were found. A wise decision if they really keep their promise.

Where to sleep: Agriturismo Bannata exquisite hospitality at affordable price and delicious local cuisine. $$

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION PLEASE CALL: 1-507/287-8733
or email: info@travelingtoitaly.com


No Comments » |

Fountains of Rome – Fontane di Roma

Fontana di Trevi

Fontane di Roma

Passeggiate Romane – Walking around Rome

“Fontane di Roma” (Fountains of Rome) is not only a beautiful piece of music composed by Ottorino Respighi in 1916, but it’s also a theme of a “passeggiata,” a walk around Rome to admire some of the best fountains built during the pinnacle of the Imperial and Papal times.

Rome has dozens of fountains, many very famous that were designed by well-known artists. The most well known were built during the Imperial era. Water for the fountains is supplied by eleven aqueducts. This abundance of water encouraged the construction of these magnificent fountains and hundreds of smaller ones. The smaller fountains are called “nasoni.” They offer refreshment to tourists and locals alike during the hot Roman summers. The nickname “nasone,” or big nose, derives from the shape of the spout of these fountains that in many cases resemble a big nose.

During the Sack of Rome in 401 by Alaric, King of the Visigoths, many of those aqueducts were destroyed. For many centuries Rome had serious problems given the lack of water available in the city, not only for its beautiful fountains that were now dry, but also for drinking water and for the most elementary human needs. But, things changed at the end of the 16th century when several popes intervened to solve this serious problem, restoring some of the aqueducts that still feed the city fountains such as the Trevi Fountain that each year is admired by millions of tourists.

The itinerary takes between three and four hours, depending on the length of each stop. It starts with Fountain of the Naiads in Piazza della Repubblica or Piazza Esedra, as it used to be called, a large square created around 1900. Next is the Fountain of Moses, in Piazza San Bernardo.

The Triton Fountain, one of Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s masterpieces, was built about 1624. It is located in Via del Tritone. Nearby, between Piazza Barberini and Via Veneto, you must see the Fountain of Bees, another creation of Bernini to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the papacy of Pope Urban VIII, who actually died just a few days before the celebration.

Next stop will be the world-famous Fontanadi Trevi, nothing to add to describe its beauty, but it might help to know that this fountain is famous because the aqueduct that feeds it was built by the Roman General Agrippa in 19 B.C.bringing the water in from a source 20 kilometers from Rome. You may remember it in Federico Fellini’s movie “La Dolce Vita” especially the scene where Swedish star Anita Ekberg bathes in the fountain.

Near the fountain there is a beautiful church, “Chiesa Santi Vincenzo ed Anastasio,” that deserves a visit.

Continuing our walk we arrive in Piazzadi Spagna where we can admire the very popular Fontana della Barcaccia (bad boat), the well known work of Pietro Bernini who designed this fountain about 1629, probably aided by his more famous son, Gian Lorenzo. Legend tells that Pope Urban VIII of the Barberini family ordered this fountain to commemorate a boat that ended up stranded there during the 1589 flood. In reality, it seems that Bernini was forced to set the fountain below ground level for engineering purposes. The water pressure from the aqueduct that feeds the larger Trevi Fountain was inadequate to feed both fountains. Bernini solved the problem by lowering the level of “La Barcaccia.”

Piazza Navona and the surrounding streets, are a shopper’s paradise, and the nearby Via Margutta, is known as the artists’ quarter in Rome. This gathering place for artists from all over the world will be our final stop. By the house number #53 on Via Margutta, there is the Fountain of Artists, a pretty project created in 1927 by Pietro Lombardi with the intent of honoring the world of art. The fountain depicts paintbrushes, chisels and palettes.

This fountain is one of the series called “Fontanelle Rionali” created by artist Pietro Lombardi to represent each quarter of Rome by depicting a certain theme that is characteristic of that neighborhood.

This blog is the first of series that will talk about walking itineraries to discover the hidden beauty of Rome, in Italian a leisurely walk is called “passeggiata” And I’ll call these blogs “passeggiate Romane.”

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION PLEASE CALL: 1-507/287-8733
or email: info@travelingtoitaly.com


No Comments » |

Cremona a Beautiful City

Prof. De Lorenzi playing the 1727 Stradivari

A Legendary “Luthier” Lives On

Famous for its violin makers

CREMONA is a beautiful medieval city located on the plain called: “Pianura Padana,” that flat area flanking the Po River from the Piedmont region on the west to its delta in the region of Veneto on the east. The city is famous for its “Torrazzo,” an imposing medieval tower that is the city’s landmark. Cremona is also known for the production of “Torrone” (nougat), one of the best in Italy.

The city is especially famous for its musical traditions, including its most renowned “luthiers” Antonio Guarneri and Antonio Stradivari. The city of Cremona has an impressive string collection and all the instruments in this collection were built in Cremona by one of its famous “luthiers.” Below is a list of the instruments on display in the Museo Stradivari:

Violin: “Carlo IX di Francia”, Andrea Amati, 1566

Viola: “La Stauffer”, Antonio and Gerolamo Amati, 1615

Violin: “L’Hammerle”, Nicolò Amati, 1658

Violin: “Il Clisbee”, Antonio Stradivari, 1669

Violin: Francesco Ruggeri, 1675

Violin: “Il Quarestani”, Giuseppe Guarneri (figlio di Andrea), 1689

Cello: “ex Cristiani”, Antonio Stradivari, 1700

Violin: “Il Cremonese 1715″, Antonio Stradivari, 1715

Violin: “Il Vesuvius”, Antonio Stradivari, 1727

Violin: “Lo Stauffer”, Giuseppe Guarneri (detto del Gesù), 1734

Violin: “Lo Stauffer”, Enrico Ceruti, 1868

Violin: Simone Fernando Sacconi, 1841

About a week ago at the International travel fair BIT in Milan, the city of Cremona offered a concert for the travel buyers. Foreign buyers were invited for an evening at Milan’s Palazzo Cusani for dinner and a concert by the Orchestra of Brescia. We were not prepared for such an exquisite surprise; a quartet executed three lovely pieces of classical music before a scrumptious dinner of products from the region of Lombardy.During dinner a speaker announced that to culminate the feast, there would be a presentation of a violin crafted in 1727 by Antonio Stradivari. Prof. Antonio De Lorenzi executed three famous sonatas including Mendelssohn’s “Meditation”. I cannot forget the experience – how lucky I feel to have had this opportunity to listen to this sonata skillfully played on an instrument so superbly crafted by one of the world’s most famous “luthier.”

If interested, the Istituto di Istruzione Superiore Antonio Stradivari, based in Cremona offers two very important schools: Liceo Musicale was born to nurture young people who love music and would like a career in the field. The school is housed in the Palazzo Pallavicino-Ariguzzi a splendid Renaissance building. For additional information visit the school website or contact info@ipiali.it, Tel. 011 39 0372 800 233.

The other school, the Design di Moda prepares young students for several different careers in the fashion field. It’s designed for future tailors, fashion designers, costume designers and more. Additional information can be found at school website, or calling 011 39 0372 800 233.

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION PLEASE CALL: 1-507/287-8733
or email: info@travelingtoitaly.com


No Comments » |

Agrigento – Its History and Traditions

Agrigento Juno's Temple

2,500 years of history

Agrigento is much more than the city you find on travel brochures or postcards. Its exquisite Greek temples are an integral part of a modern bustling city that has grown up next to the ancient ruins of the Greek colony founded more than 2,500 years ago by the first Greek sailors who became its settlers while searching to expand their already millenary civilization.

It was founded in 580 B.C., as Akragas, a Greek name. In Roman times it became Agrigentum, which during the Arab invasion became Kirkent, and finally, in 1927 became Agrigento.

The most notable area of the city is the Valley of Temples that is located on the seaside of the actual modern city, which is situated on a hill that gently slopes down to the beaches. Imagine the Greek navigators who first landed on its shores more than 2000 years ago!

The area is rich with remains of the ancient civilizations that ruled the city over the centuries. Naturally, some buildings have been built over the temples and other temples were buried or dismantled to build the modern city, but there is still plenty to see, especially its well-preserved temples.

The best-preserved Greek temple is the Concordia, other temples in good condition are the Hercules and Juno; the entire area around the Valley of Temples is full of remains dating back to the Hellenistic period.

What catches the attention of the careful traveler is the vitality that moves the city. Long gone are the stereotypes that made Sicily famous through movies and questionable literature; today Agrigento is a modern city in every way. Women no longer wear black or cover their heads with scarves. An excellent lodging industry welcomes visitors from all-over the world, where young chefs capitalize on the richness of a cuisine that spans from the Greeks to the Romans, from the Arabs to the Bourbons that dominated Southern Italy for more than 300 years.

Wines deserve a special chapter to be competently described given the variety produced and the high quality they have reached. Local grapes like Inzolia, Catarratto, Grillo, Nero d’Avola, Nerello, Cappuccio and Fiano are stand out among the international varieties like Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. During my last visit, I was impressed by a bubbly Catarratto that, I think may soon compete with the overrated and internationally famous Prosecco. The Nero d’Avola is the Sicilian Red that we know well and now find on many wine lists all-over the world, but we need to give credit to Sicilian winemakers for the fantasy and the capacity they show in making this extraordinary wine. In 2-3 days we tasted Nero d’Avola produced in a dozen different variations, often the same winemaker produces up to 4 different types of Nero d’Avola and believe me, the results are extremely interesting.

Last, but not least, the gastronomy. Pasta is the king of the table, it might be Pasta alla Norma, or Pasta con le Sarde but it is always present on all tables. Vegetables, often roasted, are ubiquitous as well. Meat, both pork and lamb are oven served, but I had the pleasure to taste tripe as well, Panelle, Arancini and countless varieties of finger foods or appetizers are popular.

When in Sicily, do not forget its cheeses. Ricotta, when served fresh and still a bit warm is an aphrodisiac. Primo sale and Stagionato are the best two cheeses you can have in Sicily; match these cheeses with some of the local wines and you will never forget the complexity and the aromas that will be created in your mouth.

There is more to discover about Agrigento and its surroundings. I strongly recommend a visit to everyone who asks me for a vacation destination where authenticity of the traditions and the friendliness of the locals can still be found. They truly go the extra mile to please their guests. If you decide to go, forget the list of must-see places, be smart “go local” have a real fulfilling experience, one that you will always remember and that will make you richer and more appreciative of one of the oldest civilization of the world.

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION PLEASE CALL: 1-507/287-8733
or email: info@travelingtoitaly.com


No Comments » |

The Saffron Trail

Precious Saffron

Yellow as Saffron

One of the least known spices

We were in Abruzzo, the southern part of the region between Apulia and Campania regions. Our itinerary was completely open; we just wanted to explore Abruzzo, a region we didn’t know much about. We wanted to see for ourselves an area that we knew offered everything a modern tourist desires: excellent cuisine, great wines, art, history and uncrowded places. We discovered small and colorful villages sitting like crowns on top of the surrounding hills and prices that were reasonable everywhere we went. The altitude in Abruzzo helped us escape the heat that we had experienced on the first leg of our Italian journey further north in Umbria.

Since we weren’t tied to an itinerary, when we saw the sign NAVELLI we made a quick decision to stop. Navelli has been known since medieval times for its production of Saffron. In no time at all we were parked in a deserted “piazza.”

We grabbed our cameras and started walking in the narrow streets of a semi-ghost town. Navelli had its heyday during the Renaissance when saffron was used as paint pigment by all the artists of the time before it became a delicious highly-rated gourmet spice.

There weren’t many people around, the only man we met there suggested that we go to Civitaretenga, another village only 2 miles from Navelli to learn more about the production of saffron. Civitaretenga is home to the largest saffron producer in Italy; it’s actually a cooperative. Navelli is almost totally abandoned due to the earthquake in L’Aquila. Damage to the houses is evident and few can safely live there until the restoration work is completed. See our previous blog ONCE A FAIRY-TALE LIKE CITY…

In Civitaretenga we went searching for the Saffron Coop. At the large green house, we were met by the director of the business, who entertained us by offering us a drink of a liqueur made with saffron. Delicious, but 43 proof at eleven in the morning on an empty stomach was a jolt!

Known since the Middle Ages, saffron is used in medicine, dyes, and perfumes. It grows in several countries, India, Morocco, Spain, Greece and Italy. It is highly labor intensive to produce, taking more than 4,000 flowers to produce one ounce of powder that sells for about $300. Discerning chefs prefer to use the stigmas, which are also called threads.

The saffron crocus bulbs are planted in August. Flowering occurs in October and the harvest happens at dawn when the bulb is closed. All of the labor is done by hand. The threads are immediately dried over a fire of neutral wood like almond or oak that doesn’t impart its flavor to the finished product.

Navelli and Civitaretenga had strong ties with Florence and the Medici family by marriage (it will be the subject of another blog) and through business contacts. During the Republic of Florence under the Medici rulers, the wool guild was the strongest economic enterprise. Florentine merchants frequently traveled to Navelli to buy raw material from the shepherds of Abruzzo. Through these contacts they learned about saffron and started trading it as well. They succeeded in importing the cultivation of saffron to Tuscany and were able to produce a good product in and around San Gimignano. Lately the practice has been resurrected in the city of towers and saffron is produced there with moderate results. However, it is commonly understood that to get a good flower with great flavor the best soil and conditions are located at about 2900ft of altitude which defines the area in Abruzzo.

While there we had a lunch of home made Fettuccine with saffron, a taste that still lingers on our palate.

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION PLEASE CALL: 1-507/287-8733
or email: info@travelingtoitaly.com


No Comments » |

Piedmont Gourmet and Relax

Can you resist to this bounty?

A unique opportunity…

…for a very exclusive package, 8 days in the Langhe area of Piedmont famous for its wines, white truffles and the delicious cuisine of the Hotel Villa San Carlo and its host, Master Chef Carlo Zarri.

This is an ideal place to spend a few relaxing days among the world’s best vineyards. Savor some of the world’s best wines: Barbaresco, Asti, and the King of wines BAROLO. These wines pair perfectly with local specialties masterly prepared by one of the Italy’s best chefs.

Carlo recently was awarded the “Gotha of Taste,” a very prestigious recognition given by a jury of international journalists specialized in the Hospitality & Food industries. Every year 500 hotels worldwide are selected for this recognition.

The area offers many opportunities for a relaxing vacation. The spa town of Acqui Terme offers high quality services for wellness & relaxation. The most famous wine villages including: Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero are within a 30 minute driving range.

Within a few miles,, you can visit the town of BRA, birthplace of the Slow Food movement and its founder Carlo Petrini as well. I would strongly suggest a visit to the Universitá del Gusto (College of Taste) to visit the facilities and to the Banca del Vino (Wine Bank), the only bank in the world that conducts transactions only with wine, not money.

Contact me for details – this is also a wonderful weekend destination.

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION PLEASE CALL: 1-507/287-8733
or email: info@travelingtoitaly.com


No Comments » |

Rome, Palazzo Farnese Exhibition Reopening

Annibale Carraci, Due Putti fresco detail

Rome beauty never seen before

Last October I tried very hard to get permission to visit Palazzo Farnese for a group of art lovers from Texas. I truly used all my acquaintances and some political firepower to no avail. At the beginning I was told that maybe they would allow the group in for a small visit, but when we went to define the details for the visit I received an email message that didn’t allow a reply. The French Embassy that owns the palazzo issued a firm denial for the visit.

I had to swallow my pride and kept going. A week ago I received a message that the opening of Palazzo Farnese was imminent with a really rare exhibition of artwork from the best Artists of the Renaissance.

“Colossal, imposing, magnificent,” Antonio Guattani wrote describing the palace in 1805, “One of the wonders of Rome,” that fascinates all the voyagers of the “Grand Tour.”

More than 150 pieces will be on display among them paintings, statues, sculptures, coins, pottery, tapestries, and furniture.

Roberto Checchi and Francesco Buranelli are the curators of the exhibition. They selected the pieces from the original Farnese collection that ended up in Naples when one members of the House of Bourbon married a Farnese.

An astonishing building of truly rare beauty is now open for the enjoyment of art lovers and curiosity seekers. If you happen to visit Rome from now until the 27th of April, do not miss this unique opportunity. The exhibition is open daily from 9AM to 7PM Monday through Wednesday, and 9AM through 9PM Thursday to Sunday. Reservations are mandatory for groups.

The entrance fee is €15 Saturday and Sunday, €12 week days. A reservation is not mandatory, but I would strongly suggest making a reservation. For security reasons, the reason they stated for denying the permit for my group, they will allow only a small number of visitors at any given time.

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION PLEASE CALL: 1-507/287-8733
or email: info@travelingtoitaly.com

1 Comment » |

TravelingToItaly.com is © 2001-2010 Gabriele's Travels to Italy. All rights are reserved.
Unauthorized duplication in whole or in part of any information contained in this website is strictly prohibited.