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FROM THE NEW YORK TIMES
September 23, 2007
36 Hours in Bologna
By PAVIA ROSATI
If Emilia Romagna is the geographic and gastronomic belly of Italy, then Bologna,
the region's capital, is its navel - a little hidden and often overlooked. But
travelers shouldn't skip Bologna, because it's a microcosm of everything that's
right about Italy: friendly residents, walkable sites, beautiful architecture and
amazing food. And for all its beloved medieval charm - the feudal towers that dot
the skyline, a university that was founded in 1088, porticos that stretch for
miles - Bologna has more than a few unexpected and contemporary surprises up
its sleeve.
Friday 5 p.m. 1) HIDDEN CANALS
Few visitors realize that underneath the city's cobblestone streets lies a
medieval network of canals originally used for trade and transport. Most have
been paved over, but for an excellent look at what lies beneath, go to 16-18
Via Piella, where a small window peers over a gushing stream. Get an even better
view a block away at Caffá Opera e Tulipani (Via Alessandrini, 7; 39-051-245-122)
where the back room overlooks a rushing waterfall. Bologna? Venice? Where are
you? For a dramatic tour of the canals, check out a new Friday-night play,
"Tra-Ghetto, L'Inferno di Bologna" (www.societaperazioni.com/tra-ghetto.html),
which takes place underground along the Aposa channel. It costs 10 euros, or
$14 at $1.40 to the euro.
8:30 p.m. 2) BUON APPETITO
Bologna gave the world tortellini, mortadella and ragú and there's no reason
to stop feasting on these delights. At the moment, the in-crowd is eating at
Drogheria della Rosa (Via Cartoleria, 10; 39-051-222-529; www.drogheriadellarosa.it),
a small and crowded trattoria in a former pharmacy where the affable owner, Emanuele
Addone, makes everyone feel like a regular. A typical meal there includes culatello,
the prized cured ham (12 euros), tortelli stuffed with zucchini blossoms and
stracchino and squaquerone cheeses (10 euros), pheasant with honey (18 euros) and
some Valpolicella.
11 p.m. 3) BOHEMIAN BOLOGNA
This may be a bourgeois city, but an alternative scene thrives in the seedy but
cool taverns near the intersection of Via del Pratello and Via Pietralata. Monastero
(Via del Pratello, 66/a; 39-051-557-172; www.monasteropub.com) is a modern bar
with minimalist gothic arches and martini-inspired cocktails. Next door is Barazzo
(Via del Pratello, 66/b), a grungy bar with a trendy clientele. To rub elbows
with Bologna's beautiful people, head to Nu Lounge Bar (Via dei Musei, 6;
39-051-222-532; www.nu-lounge.com), where a boisterous and stylish crowd
holds court on the outdoor tables.
Saturday 10 a.m. 4) MORTADELLA TO GO
Shop like a local at the city's venerable food market (along Vias Clavature,
Drapperie, Pescherie and Caprarie), where small shops brim with elaborate
displays of breads, fish, meats, cheeses and sweets. Bottega del Caff�� (Via
Orefici, 6; 39-051-236-720; www.caffe14luglio.it) has an exquisite assortment
of chocolate, coffee and candy. By far the most mouth-watering shop is A. F.
Tamburini (Via Caprarie, 1; 39-051-234-726; www.tamburini.com), the legendary
deli with towering stacks of salumi, Parmesan and pastas. Stop at the sit-down
restaurant in the back for a quick pasta or salad, and stock up on mortadella
and other foodie souvenirs upfront. Remember: anything vacuum-sealed is safe
for customs.
Noon 5 ) DRESS THE PART
Feel underdressed in this fashion-forward city? Do something about it at L'Inde
le Palais (Via de' Musei, 6; 39-051-648-6587; www.lindelepalais.com), a cool and
gorgeous concept boutique that sells contemporary designers like Viktor & Rolf,
Biba and Missoni for men and women. Dramatic and delicate embroidered silk dresses
by Amen are especially stunning (from 1,000 euros). For a more traditional Italian
look, have a well-tailored shirt made at Zinelli (Piazza Mercanzia, 5; 39-051-225-934),
which has been making custom suits and shirts since 1937 (from 900 euros for a suit;
150 euros for a shirt). And for natty housewares, stop by Stefani (Via Clavature, 7;
39-051-221-810) for ornate silver and gold candlesticks, tableware and other handmade
artisanal objets, like a small rectangular frame with aventurina stones
(from 516 euros).
2 p.m. 6) THE PERFECT PIAZZA
Is everything in Bologna beautiful, artistic and imbued with great history? Pretty
much. A handful of the city's most striking sites are situated around Piazza Galvani,
a small jewel of a square directly south of the massive Piazza Maggiore. The
Municipal Library is a seemingly nondescript building between the two piazzas,
but tucked away on the first floor is Archiginnasio (Piazza Galvani, 1; 39-051-276-811;
www.archiginnasio.it), a magnificently carved, wood-paneled anatomical theater
from the 1600s filled with medically precise wooden sculptures. A few steps away,
across from Piazza Galvani on Via Farnini, cherubs and animals frolic in frescos
decorating the city's most beautiful porticos. Reflect on the wonders at Zanarini
(Piazza Galvani, 1; 39-051-275-0041), the grand cafe where everyone meets for coffee,
snacks, and aperitivi.
5 p.m. 7) MODERN MASTERS
Don't let the 15th-century churches, 16th-century fountains and 17th-century frescoes
distract you from Bologna's modern art scene. Museo d'Arte Moderna di Bologna, more
familiarly known as Mambo (Via Don Minzoni, 14; 39-051-649-6611; www.mambo-bologna.org),
is a massive modern art museum that opened in May near the Manifattura delle Arti
arts complex. Its inaugural exhibit, ���Vertigo��� (on view until Nov. 4) is a who's
who of modern art, from Magritte and Burri to Vik Muniz and Vanessa Beecroft. For
emerging art, go across town to Galleria de' Foscherari (via Castiglione, 2/b;
39-051-221-308; www.defoscherari.com), a gallery that features contemporary
Italian artists.
7 p.m. 8) THE LEANING TOWERS
Bologna's skyline was once filled with soaring towers built by proud (and arrogant)
noble families, and two of the most famous, Garisenda and Asinelli, are iconic ���
not to mention tourist-filled. For a quieter taste of the towers, visit La Torre
dei Prendiparte (Via Sant' Aló, 7; 39-051-589-023; www.prendiparte.it), a one-room
bed-and-breakfast that opens its rooftop for tours and chamber music concerts. Be
forewarned, it's not for the faint of heart: the 11-story climb is vertigo-inducing.
The payoff, however, is extraordinary.
9 p.m. 9) LA CUCINA MODERNA
Sample the future of Italian gastronomy at Marco Fadiga Bistrot (Via Rialto, 23/c;
39-051-220-118; www.marcofadigabistrot.it), a casual restaurant decorated with a
graffiti-covered wall, framed Tintin pictures and discarded Champagne crates. Mr.
Fadiga, one of Bologna's most buzzed-about young chefs, specializes in inventive
dishes with unusual flavor combinations. The chalkboard menu recently included
antipasti like salmon marinated in coffee (4 euros), and foie gras terrine with
dates (8 euros), as well as main courses like bass tartare with mango, hazelnuts
and ginger (13 euros). Don't come without a reservation unless you're happy to sit
at the bar and eat oysters all night.
Sunday 11 a.m. 10) CATHOLIC COURSE
It's Italy, so you may as well go to church - seven times, to be precise. That's
the number of churches and religious buildings that comprise the 1,000-year-old
complex of Santo Stefano (Piazzola di Santo Stefano). The churches, which were
built over time, offer a crash course in Roman Catholicism, from the eighth-century
marble bowl in Pilate's Courtyard, to the Church of the Trinity, which was rebuilt
in the 20th century.
2 p.m. 11) A SWEET ENDING
Your Bolognese madeleine awaits at La Sorbetteria Castiglione (Via Castiglione,
44; 39-051-233-257; www.lasorbetteria.it), a classic gelato shop where there's
always a line but never a wait. The mouth-watering flavors include cremino ludovico,
with hazelnut and cocoa butter; dolce contagio, with pine nuts and carmelized
walnuts; and dolce emma, with ricotta and figs carmelized with honey (2 euros
a scoop). By the time you come back, they will have invented new flavors.
VISITOR INFORMATION
Eurofly flies direct from Kennedy Airport to Guglielmo Marconi,
Bologna's main airport, leaving Tuesdays and Saturdays, and returning on Wednesdays
and Sundays. Fares for travel next month start at around $729, according to the
Eurofly Web site. The 20-minute Aerobus trip to the city center costs 5 euros.
Bologna is compact and most attractions are within easy walking distance.
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