It is with great enthusiasm that I wish to share some
highlights from our recent tour to Sicily. Indeed,
in April 2005 we participated on the "Art History and
Gastronomy Tour of Sicily". It proved to be quite an extraordinary week for
all. We flew in and out of Palermo, which lies on the Northern edge of the
island toward the West end. This ancient town has been a crossroads of
civilizations in the Mediterranean for thousands of years. We experienced its
"grandeur" with sites as varied as the Norman Palace and Palatine Chapel to the
church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti, the Cathedral, Quattro Canti square and
more. Simply meandering the streets of its historical centre and visiting the
town's popular Vucciria market proved delightful.
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The second morning we traveled to Segesta, an ancient village in the Western
part of Sicily, and were in awe over the Greek Theatre and Doric Temple,
masterpieces of Greek architecture. Erice, a nearby medieval town, was our next
stop. Situated on the top of a mountain, it provides a phenomenal view of the
entire Western region, the Mediterranean Sea and the Egadi Islands (a note here
- we now over a sailing package aboard a crewed sailboat which allows one to
explore this island complex by boat.) In the town of Marsala, famous for its
wine production, we enjoyed a visit to a famous winery, which included both a
wine tasting and an opportunity to learn about local production. This was an
interesting comparison to the wine tasting a few days later at Tenuta San
Michele, an ancient estate located on the slopes of the Mt. Etna volcano, where
the climate and the volcanic soil give wines a unique mineral taste typical of
the area around Mt. Etna. Differences were notable. A world in itself, Sicily,
in all its complexities, is a land like no other.
Our third morning we departed for the Southwest coast. This proved a day of
varied archeitecture, from our first stop in Agrigento, to visit the beautiful
Valley of the Temples, and later onto Piazza Armerina, a small town in the
south-central part of the island, to visit the Villa Romana del Casale, a Roman
country villa dating back to the 3rd century and famous for its precious
mosaics. Accommodations, at an area Farmhouse, proved charming, and yes, we
relished in an authentic Sicilian dinner with its array of pasta, ricotta,
salsiccia, local meat and vegetables. And "Nero d'Avola" wine.
A taste of history captured our visual senses as we viewed the archaeological
zone - a Greek Theatre, a Roman Amphitheatre, the Ear of Dyonisus and the
Latomie Ð as we travelled to Siracusa. From here we made the short drive over
the bridge to walk through the historical center on the Ortigia Island (to
original Syracuse founded by Greek settlers) to admire the Cathedral, the
Aretusa fountain and the ancient streets. Our itinerary allowed time to explore
the area around Mt. Etna and the beautiful town of Taormina, famous for its
Greek-Roman Amphitheatre, enchanting views of the Ionic Sea, its beautiful
beach, wonderful shops and simply its "dolce vita" life style.
Departing this area we moved onto countryside and green pastures - quite a
contrast Ð as we travelled to Castellana, which lies in the Madonie Mountains
Natural Park. In the inland area, between the Northern Coast and Central Sicily,
we discovered many of the numerous ancient small villages, where people still
live according to the oldest Sicilian traditions. Here and everywhere we were
graciously welcomed. The nearby ancient village of Polizzi Generosa proved rich
in historical and artistic attractions.
While cooking demonstrations, during this trip, provided insight into regional
fare, in addition the facilities left an impression. One of our sessions took
place in the house of a woman chef. Her dwelling was built atop a Byzantine
castle, which was on top of a Greek-Roman temple under which lay a Phoenician
Temple. To set eyes on these layers of civilization and culture is simply
astounding Ð to realize that these are physical and visible Ð a scene unlike any
other. Adjacent to another class we discovered a rather unpretentious church
behind the facility, which, upon entering, we were in awe finding ancient Greek
columns holding up the walls of the church.
Throughout the time we spent in Sicily all felt welcomed everywhere. The
Sicilian people treated us as guests rather than tourists - everyone from
shopkeepers and restaurant owners to passer-bys on the street.
There's no other place on Earth like Sicily. The island is a unique place full
of art, archeology, history, folklore.
We will always remember this trip for its
breathtaking scenery, history, archeological sites and, of course, great food
and wine. We recommend you make Sicily your next travel destination.
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Sicilian cuisine - terms and notes:
Caponata - a tasty salad of eggplant (aubergines), olives, capers and celery,
often served as great appetizer. While
there is an artichoke-based version it is less likely offered by restaurants.
Sfincione - a local form of pizza made with tomatoes, onions and (sometimes)
anchovies which is prepared on a thick bread and thus more likely found in a
bakery than in a pizzeria. Panella - a thin paste prepared from crushed or
powdered ceci (garbanzo) beans and served fried. Maccu - a creamy garbanzo bean
soup.
Crocche (croquet) - fried potato dumplings made with cheese, parsley and
eggs.
Arancine are fried rice balls stuffed with meat or cheese. The cuisine in
Sicily stands out for its seafood. Common dishes are grilled swordfish, snapper
(sometimes prepared in a vinegar and sugar sauce), cuttlefish (often served in a
black sauce over pasta) and sardines with fennel. Meat dishes are always
popular. Many traditionally ones are lamb or goat based. Sicilian desserts are
outstanding.
Cannoli are tubular crusts with creamy sheepÕs milk ricotta and
sugar filling.
Cassata is a rich, sugary cake filled with the same delicious
filling.
Frutta di Martorana (or pasta reale) are almond marzipan pastries
colored and shaped to resemble real fruit.
Granita is sweetened crushed ice made
in Summer and flavored with lemons or strawberries.
Sicilian gelato (ice cream)
is a unique taste-treat and is offered in basic to exotic flavors (pistachio,
hazelnut/nocciola, jasmine/gelsomino, mulberry/gelsi, strawberry/fragola,
rum/zuppa inglese and more). Its simply wonderful Ð that said, one is an added
delight to adhere to the folklore that ice cream was invented in Sicily during
Roman times, when a relay of runners would bring snow down from Mount Etna to be
flavored and served to wealthy patricians.
Traveler from California
SICILIAN RECIPE
Orange Salad (Insalata d'Arance) This typically Sicilian salad is excellent as a
side dish, or a separate course leading into dessert. Serves 6.
4 large naval oranges
1 large fresh anise bulb (the crisper the better)
1 small
lemon 1/4 cup shelled almonds
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon
white sugar
1 tablespoon sweet Marsala wine 1 head of lettuce dried coconut
shavings fresh peppermint leaves Clean the anise well.
Peel the oranges and
lemon, and remove the tough heart of the anise, as well as the stalk and leaves.
Cut the anise, oranges and lemon crosswise into thin slices. Toss together with
almonds and mint leaves in a large bowl.
Sprinkle with sugar, olive oil and
Marsala wine, and toss again. Chill for a few hours.
Toss again before serving.
Serve on a bed of lettuce leaves.
Sprinkle dried coconut shavings over the top.
Suggested reading about Sicily: THE STONE BOUDOIR - Theresa Maggio
