Immediately upon arriving back in Minnesota after traveling to Italy
with Gabriele for Christmas this year, I searched Amazon for books on Umbrian cooking.
The two cookbooks arrived this week, and I am diligently trying ways to use the porcini
mushrooms, olive oil and lentils that I carried home. It is my personal attempt to hold
on tight to the memories of the best trip that I have taken, ever.
Our group of six became a small Italian family in tune with all the other Italians
celebrating these family-focused holidays. The critical key to its success was Gabriele
who grew up in Assisi and could arrange for us to fit into the local scene. That was
crucial because this is not tourist time in Italy. (One other resolution that I made for
2005 is to learn Italian. We were fortunate in having Susan as one of our group, who is
nearly fluent in Italian. It made such a difference when we were wandering around on our
own that I am committed to following her example.)
The trip began in Assisi on Christmas Eve. We had our choice of churches to attend
midnight mass and selected the Basilica of San Francesco, arriving at 10:15 to ensure
getting a seat. Families kept arriving until as many were standing as sitting. Matins
were sung beginning at 10:30; the mass ended about one. As we walked back to the Hotel
Sole along via San Francesco, we were surrounded by Assisi families making their way home.
It felt like we belonged as a "foster family." It was a good beginning to the trip.
Christmas Day was exceptional - the choice of restaurant in Bevagna, the staff whose
love for their work was infectious, the live music, the food - one course after another of
incredible flavors. By the time we had spent hours together eating, drinking, talking,
laughing, all six tables in the restaurant had become connected. The father of four
children who kept us entertained spoke to me as we were leaving. Small world. He works
for IBM and had been to Rochester, Minnesota.
At the end of the week, we celebrated New Yearıs Eve with Maria at the Malvarina. It
was a clear, crisp night with a view from the hilltop that spanned the entire valley from
Perugia to Spoleto. At midnight, we stood outside watching as hundreds of individual
fireworks displays lit the landscape. Behind us, the Malvarina staff were lighting their
contribution to the show. It lasted for fifteen or twenty minutes - and left an indelible
picture in my memory. No camera shot could do it justice. You simply had to be
there.
The week sandwiched between these book-end celebrations allowed explorations of almost
all of Umbria. Weather was mostly good. Only in Orvieto did the wind and rain deter us
to change plans (I have never seen so many "dead" umbrellas stuffed in trash containers as
that morning in Orvieto). The alternative plan was a visit to Deruta, the pottery center.
I bought the mug that holds my morning coffee during our exploration of the side streets
of Deruta, so it was a worthwhile stop for me.
If I just let my mind wander back to Umbria, I think of the chorus of church bells
ringing in Assisi and Gubbio - the taste of porcini mushrooms, truffles and the
incredible rosemary potato dish served by Gianni at Pontuia - the hundreds of creches,
found tucked in everywhere we went - the total lack of commercialism of Christmas the
time spent together at lunch and dinner, relaxed times with great food & wine and much
laughter - the warmth and friendliness of the Italians in this non-tourist time of the
year.
In the winter months to come, I'ım digging into my Italian lessons, trying more recipes
from the cookbooks, and saving my pennies for my return trip to a place that feels like a
second home thanks to Gabriele.
New Brighton, Minnesota
